Bethlehem's Christmas Tree Lighting Illuminates Once Again Since the Outbreak of the Conflict
For two years during the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.
But, following a recent truce, the holy city determined that now celebrations would return, as symbolised by the lighting of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no Christmas, no jobs, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade was down to zero."
The mayor acknowledges that the decision to restart festivities was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it is fitting," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the correct action to do since Christmas should never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for our community."
A Spark of Festivity Returns
Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now decorate the streets with signs advertising holiday markets and children's parties.
"We are delighted to see the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, therefore here is where we can convey a message globally of what Christmas truly represents. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a positive message for the whole world."
Economic Prospects and Difficulties
The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light holiday trees soon. Hotels – which have remained largely empty for the past two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "In my view everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she states.
"I hope a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is there are no lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for hours minimum."
Currently, the souvenir stores scattered throughout the city have little business, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, guides largely stand idle. Prior to the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.
"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," expresses one guide Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin American and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Following the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
Meanwhile, government employees have been paid only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding these funds due to the fact that the PA makes payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – facing global pressure to enact reforms – says it has recently changed its welfare system.
An Austere Christmas Season
The grim economic situation means that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events as well as religious services, it will be an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of Manger Square, a few customers wait to buy hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes lately many families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festive event or the theatre or similar, they lack the funds to spend for this celebration."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
Within the grotto beneath the church, a local woman accompanies a small Indian tour group, stooping down by a silver star that indicates the location where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents state they are praying for peace – and wishing for visitors to return to the place where it is believed Christmas began.